Camino del Norte – Part 2 Dogs and monks

Jakobsweg Spain Scallop camino

Camino day 4 – Also pilgrims get drunk

This morning I woke up as the first one and felt pretty sick. I took some medicine and had a light breakfast before I started to go. I left my backpack at the bar and started walking through Vilalba all the way through the pretty meadows.
After a while, I found a nice pub in the middle of nowhere and decided to have my proper breakfast there. When I went in there guess who I saw? The group from yesterday! Unfortunately, they already had their breakfast and left already, but I knew we will meet up later again.
After a delicious chicken baguette, I left the pub for the next part of the route. While I was walking I came across many farms and met many many dogs there.

A while later I arrived in Baamonde, which is a nice beautiful small town in the middle of nowhere. camino walk spainI looked for the bar where my backpack got delivered and went to the hostel. The hostel itself is a beautiful and huge country house with an amazingly big fireplace downstairs and lots of beds upstairs in the gallery, enough to accommodate a whole school! It was the prettiest accommodation I have seen so far. I also met all the pilgrims in here and we had some nice talks.

During the night I woke up because somebody made a lot of noise. I saw 2 shadows walking around in the dark and they must have been totally drunk since they weren’t able to walk properly. I heard them talking and figured out that they had no clue at all where their beds where. And one of them was so drunk, that he felt on the floor a couple of times.

The most shockingly and also hilarious part was when the very drunk guy actually tried to go to one of the beds where a girl already slept in. I heard the noise of taking a duvet and then a girl screaming:”Get the fuck off of me!” and afterward the noise of a guy falling down on the floor again. I followed the drunk shadow then with my eyes and saw that he was able to find a free bed a few meters further in the back.


Day 5 – Dogs and monks!

The next day I discovered that the 2 drunk guys were actually from Belgium and guess who was still asleep when everybody left the hostel? The 2 guys from Belgium!

I started walking towards the next village and while I was walking into a forest, a young German shepherd ran towards me and jumped on me, licked all over my face and just wanted to play with me. Even though I love dogs, I got scared for a moment. But who wouldn’t if an unknown dog is running towards somebody and jumps on them? A bit later his owner appeared and took the dog with him, I said goodbye to my new little friend and continued walking.

After a while, I came to a farm with 2 little dogs. Those dogs barked and barked and barked and just didn’t stop it at all! The Camino way leads directly beside the farm entrance and there was no way for me to walk around it. But the closer I came, the louder the dogs got. At one point they started growling, which they shouldn’t have as I got really angry with them and growled back and was ready to fight them! I simply would never let it happen that 2 teeny weeny dogs going to disrespect me! So I walked past the entrance of the farm, while we growled at each other and once I passed the entrance gate, the dogs left me alone. It must have been pretty hilarious to watch me doing this.

After a little while, I met my German friends Rudiger and Erika again. Erika looked pretty scared and she told me that she is afraid of dogs. Unfortunately for her, she got also jumped by a German shepherd and had to fight 2 little dogs at the farm. Rudiger had to calm her down and did a great job doing that!

We then came to a crossroad with 2 arrows pointing in opposite directions and both saying “the Camino continues here”. One of them was 30 km long and the other 40 km. We decided to go for the shorter one but after starting to walk we met some people from another farm and they explained to us that we shouldn’t go this way, as there is absolutely nothing but meadows and forests. No villages, no pubs, nothing! So we decided to go for the long walk.

While we were walking we spoke a lot about world politics. The hot topic was – of course – Trump! And we also spoke about Merkel and her refugee politics quite a bit. We had many stops for food and drinks and saw many cats and kittens along the way. They were everywhere! The most impressive stop we had was at a small private hostel in the middle of the forest, where they had a small farm with many cats on it. On the inside, they also had a small coffee shop and the walls of the coffee shop were full of coins from all over the world! I even discovered some Chinese and Japanese once. This was pretty cool!

After a walk of 30 km, we arrived at a hostel that is on the top of a huge hill. There we had some afternoon coffee and Rudiger and Erika decided to stay here for the night, as they couldn’t walk any further. I instead decided to walk the last 10 km, as this was my big goal to do.
A while later I regretted my decision as this was the hardest walk ever! I walked mostly on streets. There was no proper way, just streets. And walking on concrete for hours isn’t good for feets at all. I was so happy when I saw the big lake which was very well known for the town of Sobrado dos Mon

xes and soon afterward I saw the big monastery with the hostel inside. It was the most stunning building I have seen so far! The monastery was huge and you were able to see it from far away!

monastery camino del norte spain

I walked towards the entrance and already saw one of the Spanish guys

I met a couple of days ago. He painted the monastery and when he saw me he told me that I was being late and it could be that the hostel is already full. I immediately run to the inside and got greeted by one of the monks. He asked me in Spanish from where am I from and I told him from Germany. The monk then started to speak in German with me which really impressed me, as it was fluent! He then told me that he studied in the city of Nuremberg and I just couldn’t believe what he said, as this is actually my hometown. So we had a nice talk about Nuremberg and he was able to find a bed for me. It was actually even the last one, so I got very lucky! Sleeping inside a monastery – check!

In the room, I met the Hungarian woman again and I told her about my long walk. While we were talking, I took off my shoes and my feet were red and swollen! I walked simply too much! Fortunately, she had some cream for me and it really helped with the swelling. I then went to have a shower and there I met the other Spanish guys. This was actually a strange experience for me, as they started to chat with me in a way as if we would sit in a pub. Instead, we were taking a shower altogether – completely naked. For them, it was the most normal thing to do in the world, but for me quite the opposite.
After this strange experience, I went to bed.


Day 6 – Getting lost

When I woke up I checked my feet and the swelling was gone! The cream really helped a lot! I got ready for the next part and said goodbye to my Hungarian friend. (I really thought I would see her again, but unfortunately, this was the last time I saw her). Then I started to walk to Arzua.
On the way, I saw many German pilgrims and I followed them. But then we arrived at a crossroad and the arrow pointed towards another street as the Germans were walking. I decided to trust the arrow and separating from the others. I walked for around 15 km and saw nothing around me! Just trees and meadows.

After a while I came across a small pub in the middle of nowhere, it was just standing there as it wouldn’t belong there at all!
On the inside, a woman greeted me and tried to talk to me about the Camino. Unfortunately, I couldn’t understand a word, as my Spanish was limited. I then ordered some food and a drink and had lunch there.

After that, I walked for another 5 km and actually came to a small village. It was a bit odd though since Arzua was just 20 km away and I was sure I walked 20 km. So where was it?direction camino del norte
I checked my GPS on my phone and saw that I was 10 km away from Arzua. This was quite a shock to me! After 5 minutes of panicking, I decided to walk towards Arzua, as I had to go there since my backpack got delivered to it, and also decided to do hitchhiking. I know, you shouldn’t do this on the Camino walk but I did my 20 km, just to the wrong direction, so I think I can still let this count.

The only problem was, that the street was very empty and I had to walk for a good hour until a car finally came and stopped for me. Inside the car was a Spanish guy who couldn’t understand a word of English. I just told him the name of the town and he drove me to there.
Arriving in Arzua I looked for the public hostel and checked in. In the hostel, I met some German girls I met in the morning.

They told me about a new way going towards Santiago de Compostela which is just a couple of months old. This way was build as the Camino del Norte is merging into the Camino de France from Arzua on. To change this, they just decided to build a new way that is not merging into the Camino de France.
After this explanation, I decided to go for some food and went to bed very early.



Want to know how the adventure started?

Click here for part 1!

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